Take a look at the diverse team behind Balagan Kitchen, a new Israeli and Middle Eastern restaurant in the Melbourne suburb of Windsor, and you’ll understand why they didn't take the traditional route.
Luca Lorusso has run Italian restaurant Cafe Latte for almost 30 years in Toorak. His son, Sacha Lorusso-Zyskind, grew up in Australia between two cultures. His dad is Italian and his mum is Jewish, Russian, Polish.
They've enlisted Iraqi-born head chef Akad Al-Guepa (Rockpool, Rosetta, Spice Temple), who has worked for Lorusso for several years. He spent most of his childhood in Lebanon before moving to Australia.
It’s hard to pick a favourite among the veggie dishes, but both Lorusso-Zyskind and Al-Guepa recommend the baked cauliflower with labneh and pomegranate. Source: Audrey Bourget
What makes this place function well is that it's built on a family ethos.
"What makes this place function well is that it's built on a family ethos," says Lorusso-Zyskind. "Aside from the fact that my dad and I run the business together as father and son, I think everybody here brings the best out of each other."
Balagan’s general manager, Sacha Lorusso-Zyskind, and head chef, Akad Al-Guepa. Source: Audrey Bourget
Chaos theory
Balagan started taking form after Lorusso came back from a trip to Israel. He had the cuisine: Israeli/Middle Eastern, the chef: Al-Guepa, and the name: Balagan, which means chaos in Yiddish and all that was left was the menu, and the doors to open.
Lorusso-Zyskind jokes that opening the restaurant earlier this year is one of the few times he and his dad have agreed on something: "It's very rare that my dad and I agree on something right away, but we did for Balagan. Usually, it needs a bit of arguing and fighting and tussling. We're both very passionate people."
The filo pastry cigars are filled with haloumi, spinach and shanklish. Source: Audrey Bourget
A new twist on old favourites
The menu includes a few Middle Eastern classics, but most of them have been reimagined by Al-Guepa. Instead of an eggplant-based baba ganoush, you'll find 'mama ganoush' made with smoked zucchini, and ingredients like grilled corn and shanklish (a Middle Eastern cheese) find their way into the tabbouleh.
Al Guepa's falafel recipe is partly inspired by the flavours he grew up with. "In Israel, the falafels are bright green, but they don't have much spice. In Lebanon, it's the opposite; they put lots of dry spices, but not enough fresh herbs. I thought I'd just bring them together and do both; put lots of spices and fresh herbs," he explains.
The haloumi cigars shine with the addition of spinach and shanklish. "To make the shanklish, yoghurt is hung for about a month, seasoned with dry chilli and herbs, and turned into a ball. The salty and cured flavour is perfect in the mix for the cigars," says Al-Guepa.
While there are meat and fish dishes on the menu like beef brisket and snapper shakshuka, it's the colourful vegetable dishes that catch the eye. Think pumpkin with tahini and za'atar or baked cauliflower with labneh and pomegranate.
You can come to the Balagan Kitchen for a quick falafel or lamb shawarma pita, or stay for a multiple-course affair. If you pick the latter, make sure to end your meal with the halva semifreddo.
The smoked zucchini dip aka mama ganoush, is served with coriander chutney and olive oil, and pita. Source: Audrey Bourget
The filo pastry cigars are filled with haloumi, spinach and shanklish. Source: Audrey Bourget
The halva semifreddo with pistachio, dates molasses and Perisan fairy floss has become one of the most popular dishes at Balagan Kitchen. (Lucy Deitz) Source: Audrey Bourget
"We were thinking that we had to do something with halva, but in Australia people usually think it's too sweet, so I thought we could do an halva ice cream, like a semifreddo, with Persian fairy floss," says Al-Guepa.
"It's one of our best-selling dishes, not dessert – dishes – full stop," says Lorusso-Zyskind.
"What was exciting for us is that semifreddo is an Italian dessert. My dad and I have an Italian background and Akad cooked in predominantly Italian kitchens. Bringing that influence into a Middle Eastern restaurant is very different."
184 High St, Windsor
Tue-Sun 12 pm - 4 pm and 5:30 pm - 10:30 pm
GET INSPIRED BY THIS MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE
Tahini and rose halva cookies
