Moshe Ittah grew up in Israel, with a Tunisian mother and a Moroccan father, so it’s no surprise that his restaurant, , has both Middle Eastern and North African influences.“My country is like Australia, in a way. There are a lot of different cultures from all over the world coming together so there’s a mix of different flavours in the cuisine,” Ittah tells SBS Food.
Moshe Ittah is the owner and chef at Melbourne's New Jaffa, serving a mix of Middle Eastern and North African food. Source: Audrey Bourget
After working in Melbourne kitchens for over a decade, from fine dining restaurants to cafes, the chef has taken all his saving to open his own restaurant, paying homage to the flavours he grew up on.
“I’ve kept the menu short so you’re sure that we’re 100 per cent behind every dish,” he explains.One of the highlights of that menu is the silky smooth hummus, made fresh every day. “In Israel, you have places where you can only get hummus,” says Ittah. “I want people here to understand that you can have hummus as a dish and not just a dip.” At New Jaffa, the hummus comes in three versions, all with pita. There’s traditional hummus with chilli and garlic vinaigrette, hummus with sautéed mushrooms and hummus with spiced lamb and beef. The plates are substantial, but for a few more dollars, you can add a boiled egg, falafels or an extra pita.
The menu at New Jaffa is simple but solid, with classics like hummus, couscous and shawarma on the board. Source: Audrey Bourget
“With Middle Eastern cuisine, you can easily accommodate vegan, vegetarians and meat-eaters. That’s what I do in here. I can serve the same dish, but in different versions,” says Ittah.
In the sandwich and pita sections, you’ll find the familiar falafel pita and the , as well as the lesser-known Tunisian fricassee sandwich. If you haven’t been a fan of tuna sandwiches up until now, this will change your mind. Savoury doughnut bread is covered in homemade mayo and filled with tuna preserved in oil, black olives, potatoes, capers, boiled egg and preserved lemon. “It’s the most fattening sandwich you’ll ever get, but you know what, it’s the tastiest sandwich! That’s what I grew up on as a kid,” says Ittah, showing photos his mother sends him when she makes the sandwich in Israel.
The menu also includes roasted cauliflower with vegan mayo, and daily specials like grilled snapper with lemon and herbs or spiced wagyu ribs on hand-rolled turmeric couscous.
For dessert, you can pick between , (also available in a vegan version) and (served with a , to balance the sweetness). And while New Jaffa is waiting for its liquor licence, you can set your sights on Turkish coffee, mint tea or their excellent mocktails.
Enjoy those on the terrace at the back or at one of the two large communal tables inside the restaurant. “In the Middle East, food brings people together; it’s why I put these tables. I could have put separate tables, but I was thinking why not do communal tables so people might start talking with each other? That’s the vibe I’m trying to bring,” he says.A photo on the wall over the kitchen and sailing ropes attached to the ceiling are reminiscent of the port city that the restaurant is named after. “Old Jaffa is in Israel and New Jaffa is in Melbourne,” says Ittah.
Long tables encourage diners to talk and connect while enjoying the food at New Jaffa. Source: Audrey Bourget
32 Stanley St, Collingwood
Wed – Fri 11:30 am – 4 pm and 5 – 9:30 pm
Sat 11 am – 4 pm and 5 – 10 pm
Sun 11 am – 4:30 pm