Nearly 10 years ago, Ray Martin was in a plane above central west Queensland when he spied a strange rock formation more than 12,000 metres below him.
He dubbed it ‘Running Man Rock’, because he thought it resembled a Dreamtime figure rushing through the wilderness.
“When you see it from above it’s an extraordinary sight, this natural phenomenon that was built by Mother Nature 500 million years ago,” says the legendary TV presenter.
Repeated plane trips over the years only strengthened his desire to see the rock formation – in a remote location few Australians have visited – at ground level. His remarkable road trip to reach the site is documented in the new special, Ray Martin: Mysteries of the Outback.
Running Man Rock sits just left of centre in this photograph; an epic landscape. Source: SBS
Accompanying Martin is his long-time friend and acclaimed landscape photographer Ken Duncan. Their 3000-kilometre journey takes them to some of Australia’s most isolated rural communities: starting at Birdsville, near the border between South Australia and Queensland, and taking in towns such as Bedourie, Middleton, Mount Isa and Winton, best known as the birthplace of Qantas and where Banjo Paterson penned Waltzing Matilda.
But all roads eventually lead to the town of Boulia, population 300. From here it’s only 100 kilometres west – and then a helicopter ride – to Running Man Rock. It's remote location means even local elders Martin talks to didn't know about the site.
The iconic Birdsville Hotel, Queensland. Source: SBS
“Every day was like a kid’s own adventure,” Martin says, talking to SBS about his trip.
While Running Man Rock and the harsh but beautiful Outback landscapes are the true stars of the documentary, viewers also get to meet some of the hardy folk who’ve embraced living in one of the harsher environments on the planet.
There’s the female miner in Mount Isa who spends her days working more than a kilometre underground; an Indigenous couple who train camels to compete at the annual Boulia Camel Races; hard-as-nails riders keeping the tradition of bush rodeos alive; two Boulia locals who’ve had close encounters with the mysterious Min Min light; and a cross-country truckie who drives a big rig worth a cool $1.7 million.
Ray with students at Dajarra State School. Source: SBS
Why do people choose to make this place their home? For Middleton Hotel publican Clara Fisher, it’s giving her family the chance to experience an Outback upbringing.
“When you grow up in the bush your exposure to things is different,” she explains in the documentary. “There are millions and millions of children who grow up in the city and not that many who grow up in the bush.”
One of the more memorable places the friends stop at to take photos is the historic Urandangi Pub, which Martin describes as “the most isolated pub I’ve ever been in Australia, bar none”. Sadly, the 100-year-old hotel was badly damaged by recent flooding.
Outback life. Source: SBS
“The publican had to evacuate,” Martin explains. “He was the last man standing; the floods came in almost eight metres high… and it’s now gone. Ken’s photographs were the last ever taken of [Urandangi Pub] and it’s one of my favourite shots.”
Pubs aren’t the only thing the two men photograph. There are plenty of moments in Mysteries of the Outback where viewers see Duncan and Martin stop and indulge their passion for taking breathtaking pictures of their surroundings.
Their adventure culminates at Running Man Rock where they are joined, via helicopter, by a select band of visitors, including local elder Leanne Parker, and Kalkadoon man and world-renowned Indigenous musician William Barton, who Martin says is the “star” of the film.
Wildflowers in what Ray describes as “Mother nature’s desert garden” on the road between Boulia and Winton, Queensland. Source: SBS
“Will’s a prince of a bloke,” he reveals. “He’s without a doubt the busiest musician in Australia. He’s with the Chicago String Quartet touring around America playing the didgeridoo. He’s writing an opera for the didge. He’s just an extraordinary musical talent.”
Barton also composed some of the haunting music featured in the documentary.
Martin says being at Running Man Rock was an emotional moment for everyone: “There’s something special about this place.”
Indigenous musician, the world-renowned William Barton, inspired by the Outback’s glory. Source: SBS
While much of Mysteries of the Outback is lighthearted, Martin also doesn’t shy away from discussing the region’s brutal history and shining a light on the violent conflicts between the Indigenous people and the white settlers that occurred only a few generations ago.
“There’s a nice gentle pace early on [in the documentary] and there are a lot of characters and beautiful country,” he says, “but I think it’s got a dark side at the end when you realise this was reality in the Australian Outback.”
He lists some of the battles and brutal massacres that took place during this savage, rarely discussed war, such as the notorious Hanging Tree on the Georgina River where the police killed dozens of First Nations people; and Battle Mountain north of Cloncurry, where 900 Kalkadoon warriors fought to the bitter end against police and settlers in 1884. Martin says the treatment of Indigenous people was “absolutely shameful”.
The journey takes in the many faces of the outback. Source: SBS
“It was almost a shoot-on-sight policy.”
Martin makes no apology for the documentary’s warts-and-all approach.
“It’s a rollicking, friendly drive through Outback Australia, but there’s an edge to it,” he admits. “It wasn’t all VB beers and laughs. It was a place where sadness happened and we have some things to learn.”
Ray Martin: Mysteries of the Outback premiered Sunday 9 April on SBS and is now streaming at SBS On Demand:
