Typically associated with the Middle East, the dishes hummus, falafel and couscous are now enjoyed widely in Australia and can be found from food trucks to food courts, in supermarkets and as part of home-cooked meals across the country.
But the origins of these dishes are often subject to much contention. So, where do they come from, and what is the history of these dishes that mean so much to so many, and can be intertwined with identity, place and memory?
Finding the origins and ‘owners’ of a food can be a tricky enterprise. That’s the case with these tasty treats, which are all claimed by more than one nation.
Hummus and the mystery of its origins
Therese Elias learned to make her hummus recipe from her mother-in-law when she was 18 and living in her homeland Lebanon.
Her love for cooking grew after she married and became determined to impart traditions she’d learnt from her mum and mother-in-law to her own kids.
“When I came here and started a family, I really wanted to teach my kids to know the traditions of how I grew up.”
The most popular Lebanese dish she makes is the chickpea-based dish hummus.
Therese, who lives in Sydney, says she adds a secret ingredient to her recipe to make it taste extra special.
“I put all my love inside my hummus dish, I pay attention, I know how my kids and everyone around me loves it.”
As well as her secret ingredient, Therese’s hummus consists of chickpeas, which she individually peels, tahini, garlic, salt, lemon juice, and an ice cube, which says is key to making it smooth and creamy.
“A Lebanese table without hummus is not complete, you have to always serve it at any Lebanese table and on any occasion, ” she said.
Therese Elias makes hummus with her granddaughter.
Egyptian national Ramy Hillal says hummus comes from Egypt.
“Hummus has been in Egyptian culture for hundreds of years. It is eaten in many cultures today but historically it was first found in Egypt…” he said.
But according to Professor Burcu Cevic-Compiegne from the centre for Arab and Islamic Studies at the Australian National University, the actual origins of hummus have never been traced. This is because of the widespread trade that has occurred in the Middle East and North Africa region throughout history.
“We shouldn’t forget that this area was renowned for their trade; merchants would travel across Arabia and North Africa to sell and buy different supplies - this is why it is very hard to trace exactly where one particular food originated, ” Professor Cevic-Compiegne said.
I put all my love inside my hummus dish, I pay attention.Therese Elias
Therese says while she’s grown up with hummus, she’s not 100 per cent sure as to its origins.
One thing she is sure about is that no other variation of hummus compares to the Lebanese kind.
“I know that many countries make hummus, but I’m the most proud of the hummus we make as Lebanese. Our hummus is the best, no one makes it quite like us.”
Can one country lay claim to falafel?
Falafel is another Middle Eastern dish that’s wended its way into Australian food culture.
The crispy deep-fried snacks are a mixture of chickpeas or fava beans, fresh herbs, and spices that are formed into small patties or balls.
Unlike hummus, historians have been able to trace falafel to 16th-century Egypt. However, it’s not known whether it was founded there or whether it was transferred through trade or migration.
The uncertainty of its origins means the dish has become a staple food in many cultures across the Middle East, including Egypt.
Ramy Hillal explains how a single ingredient differentiates Egypt's version of falafel from the rest of the Arab world.
“Some countries in the region share the origins of some dishes, like for example some call it tamiya or some call it falafel, but we have a different version of it, that’s why we call it tamiya. The base of the Egyptian version is made from fava beans, the base for the other versions is chickpeas. They look the same, they’re both deep fried, so it’s kind of the same but a little bit different,” Mr Hillal said.
Falafel is lifted out of hot oil at a restaurant in Cairo, Egypt. Credit: Joel Carillet/Getty Images
“I’m from Nablus in Palestine and every time I eat traditional food I’m reminded of walking through the shops in Palestine where there would always be stalls selling falafel or knafeh (a traditional dessert made with spun pastry, sweet syrup and cheese), so just seeing it or smelling it reminds me of my homeland.”
Falafel is also extremely popular in Israel.
Ronit Gabriel is from Israel, but is now based in Canberra where she works for the Executive Council of Australian Jewry. She explains how falafel and many other dishes have become popular in her homeland as a result of migration.
“Israeli cuisine is just a mix of people coming from North Africa, Central Asia, Eastern Europe, the Middle East and they all brought together something from their tradition and this melting pot that is Israel is also Israeli cuisine.”
She explains how a modern, innovative twist is added to these traditional dishes to make them their own.
“It is typical Israeli to try a different way, a different recipe or to tweak it to make it your own. For example, for falafel, we have flavoured falafels. Originally in Egypt, they were made with fava beans or chickpeas but we added flavoured versions like paprika or with a curry flavour.”
Every time I eat traditional food I’m reminded of walking through the shops in Palestine ... just seeing it or smelling it reminds me of my homeland.Lara Hawash
But adaptations and modernisations of these traditional recipes aren’t always welcome across the region.
Lara says food is at the heart of her culture, their recipes are a part of what defines the Palestinian Territories, and she says she feels frustrated when she sees other cultures claiming traditional Arab foods as their own, especially when it’s countries with whom they have been in conflict with for several decades.
“Claiming something that’s not theirs makes me really frustrated because it’s our culture…that’s why it’s always important for us to keep mentioning food and their origins so people don’t forget.”
Why couscous is on a world heritage list
Couscous has found its way into kitchens, cafes, restaurants, pubs and onto supermarket shelves across Australia.
The tiny granules of rolled-up semolina, often served as a side dish or in salads, are commonly attributed to French or Israeli culture.
But its heritage is broader than that. Couscous is recognised on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, the result of a joint application from the African countries of Algeria, Mauritania, Morocco and Tunisia.
Friends share a meal of couscous. Credit: Floris Leeuwenberg/Getty Images
“It’s our main dish and what we eat for special events, celebrations and family gatherings,” she said.
Traditionally, North African couscous is served as a main meal, with a tomato-based sauce, and cooked with vegetables and meat.
“At home we make it from scratch, we sift the semolina with special sieves to reduce it down to those little balls. It's a long process but nothing tastes better than when we make it fresh.”
She says that, like so many other traditional dishes, it’s important to acknowledge their origins as a representation of that culture and its individual characteristics.
“So many people today when they think of couscous they don’t think of our culture, and it’s quite sad, it’s a beautiful dish and it represents our origins, our ancestors and making sure people know where it comes from is also preserving our rich and unique culture.”
