Why more than a million people are flocking to this one Sydney suburb

Lakemba’s Haldon Street has transformed into 'Ramadan Nights' for the next month; a Middle Eastern and south-east Asian food bazaar with more than 70 stalls. Here are five things to try.

A man and two girls pose on a street at night.

Abou Abdullah, Soukaina and Yasmin heard about the Lakemba markets on TikTok. Source: SBS News / Rayane Tamer

Fairy lights and crescent-shaped decorations illuminate the way as the sun starts to set. Stall-holders chant jingles as they flaunt the foods on offer; stretching cheese, drizzling syrup, throwing dough in the air and whacking it onto a bench.

The sound of Quran recitals travels through the street, past a stand fundraising for victims of the Syria and Türkiye earthquake. Throngs of people start to arrive.

It’s Australia, but as some have never seen it before.

“It's like a different country ... but it's just down the street,” one visitor says.

Lakemba, in Sydney’s southwest, is home to just 17,000 residents, more than 60 per cent of them Muslim. But for the next month, Canterbury-Bankstown Council says it expects to welcome more than 1.2 million people to its global food bazaar known as Ramadan Nights Lakemba.
People walk through a street with decorations hung up.
More than a million people are expected to attend Ramadan Nights Lakemba. Source: AAP / Steven Saphore
Many Muslims are fasting during the day throughout the holy month of Ramadan, so they will come to grab a meal from one of the 70 stalls as the sun sets. But everyone is invited here, irrespective of their faith.

“[The markets] are important for everybody, for all communities in Australia,” says local mayor Khal Asfour.
“We are going to celebrate it together.”

Here's a sample of what's on offer.

Camel burger: The iconic one

Event co-founder Abdul Obeid's humble camel burger barbeque was the breeding ground for the night markets 17 years ago. He says his burger is the “most famous thing you’ll find on Haldon Street”.

It’s been described as juicier than a beef burger with a subtle gamey taste, topped with a top-secret sauce.
Burger cut in half in a box in front of a barbecue grill.
The camel burger is now a cult item. Source: SBS News / Rayane Tamer
Don’t believe the hype? Australian DJ Mistah Cee, who has more than 200,000 followers on TikTok, says the offer of a camel burger was the reason he got introduced to the markets by his friends eight years ago.

“I was like, ‘[a camel burger? At] 2 o'clock in the morning?’ They're like, ‘yeah!’”

He’s been coming for a feed every year since.

Top tip: The queue gets really busy around 9pm so come early or late. If you want to try something a little different, order the deer burger.

Murtabak: The versatile one

Anwar Shah from Desi Paikari Bazaar says the most popular dish from his stall is murtabak, also known as matabbak and mughla parathai.
Murtabak being folded on a griddle by a merchant.
Murtabak is a famous flatbread, traditionally filled with chicken, onions and egg, and fried on an iron griddle. Source: SBS News / Rayane Tamer
Murtabak is a fried flatbread with a traditional filling of chicken, egg and onion. Beef and vegetarian options are available, too.

Anwar is Rohingya, but the dish is also popular in Singapore, Malaysia, Yemen and Bangladesh.

Top tip: Anwar also recommends swapping savoury for sweet; ordering murtabak with the banana filling for dessert.

Knafeh: The viral one

Marketgoers have their phones outstretched, recording Mohammad Zarqa. You’ve probably already seen him on social media. He's theatrically flaunting the stretchy cheese on his specialty dessert known as knafeh.
Man wearing kaffeyeh with shocked facial expression pulls knafeh onto container.
Mohammad Zarqa calls out "yummy yummy" after he serves his customers. Source: SBS News / Rayane Tamer
Yummy Yummy Knafeh has been a mainstay in Lakemba for nearly 30 years and knafeh - a spun pastry (kataif) layered with sweet cheese and topped with pistachios and saffron syrup - is arguably the most popular dish to try.
Knafeh is being stretched.
Knafeh is a traditional Palestinian dessert. Source: SBS News / Rayane Tamer
The Palestinian iteration is made slightly differently across the Middle East and Türkiye.

Top tip: Eat it while the cheese is hot and stretchy.

Gulab jamun: The sweet one

At the very end of Haldon Street, you’ll find one of India’s most classic desserts, gulab jamun.

They’re warm doughnut balls made of milk dough, fried in front of you and soaked in a sugary syrup.
Men stand together in front of gulab jamun pot.
Gulab jamun is a popular Indian dessert. Source: SBS News / Rayane Tamer
Mohammed Khan, the owner of Deccan Flavours, says his stall is a “blend of cultures”, with gulab jamun “slowly becoming Aussie now”, too.

It's served in a small cup, accompanied by vanilla ice cream.

Top tip: If you want to stay on the savoury train, another popular dish here is the chicken tikka.

Kashmiri chai: The pink one

To wash down the food, try a cup of Kashmiri chai - a distinctly sweet, pink-coloured milk tea.
Men stand in front of a big pot of pink tea.
Kashmiri chai is a sweet milk tea. Source: SBS News / Rayane Tamer
At Nawabz Restaurant, a relative newcomer to the markets, salt, crushed nuts, baking soda and milk are boiled for up to nine hours before being transformed into the pink liquid.

As its name suggests, Kashmiri chai originates from Kashmir and is widely consumed by people from India and Pakistan.

Top tip: Don't forget your topping: usually pistachios or rose petals.
Man throws dough in air.
Food vendors are preparing for a busy month. Source: AAP / Steven Saphore
Marketgoer Yasmin came to Australia only a month ago from Dubai.

She says she and her friends - all of them Muslim and newly arrived migrants - were surprised to see their new home was putting on such a show for Ramadan.
A man and two girls pose on a street at night.
Abou Abdullah, Soukaina and Yasmin arrived in Australia up to four months ago. Source: SBS News / Rayane Tamer
“I’m so shocked to see such a strong, powerful, well-put-together community. The energy is going to be great ... [God willing],” she says.

is open from 21 March until 20 April, between 4pm and 3am.

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5 min read
Published 26 March 2023 2:00pm
Updated 27 March 2023 8:19am
By Rayane Tamer
Source: SBS News



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