The ultimate black forest experience in Germany

Hiking in Germany's Black Forest region means cake tastings.

Black Forest gateau with piped whipped cream rosettes with morello cherries, luxury chocolate cake

What better way to enjoy black forest cake than in Germany's Black Forest. Source: Getty Images

Is there really joy in going on a hike? What's to love about getting sweaty and twigs in your shoes, not to mention running into wild animals? However, I will push those boundaries in the wilderness if there is the promise of cake at the end of it all.

There are not many places in the world that offer scenic hikes in forests and sweet treats, but Germany's Black Forest region in the southwestern state of Baden-Württemberg does just that. Home to one of Central Europe's most diverse low mountain ranges, the Black Forest is known for both its hikes and eponymous cake.
Black forest cake
Black forest cake from Brenners Park-Hotel and Spa. Source: Michelle Tchea

Black forest cake

One of my favourite things to have originated from the Black Forest region is, of course, black forest cake (schwarzwälder kirschtorte). But historians believe the cake is not named after the forest. Instead, it's thought to have been named after the region's cherry liqueur, schwarzwälder kirschwasser.

What makes a trip to the Black Forest so rewarding is that eating cake is guilt-free. Hear me out. In the Black Forest, locals and travellers alike know the best way to enjoy cake is after a hike as a reward for their efforts.

I have two new favourite hikes in the region. They are self-tailored and one is in the countryside while the other is in the town of Baden-Baden. It's easy terrain, and of course, you can have lots of tasty cakes and sweets in between.
BLACK FOREST CAKE RECIPE

Black Forest cake

The Black Forest country trail

I begin my culinary pilgrimage at  in Baiersbronn. Hotel Bareiss is a must for any food lover. The hotel's roots date back to post-WWII when Hermine Bareiss, the founder, started her own guesthouse. The hotel has been in the family since and gone on to become a European culinary destination with three-Michelin-starred Restaurant Bareiss led by chef Claus-Peter Lumpp.

I start my day with a pretzel, grillwurst and a strong cup of coffee in the hotel breakfast room to fuel me for my hike. I walk north of the hotel at a decent incline (go quads, go!) thinking happy cake thoughts. 

I follow the signs leading to . After approximately 4km, I arrive at my first black forest cake pitstop: the . It has a traditional black forest cake of the most generous size. It's best paired with a shot of schnapps or double espresso. Feeling ambitious, I continue up a steep incline towards Tonbach, but after 3km I give in and head back towards the Baiersbronn train station, before following the river back to the hotel.

I time my arrival for a 3:30pm afternoon tea at the hotel cafe where I'm welcomed with a choice of eight cakes. The black forest cake is a must. After this, I can't resist slices of the wobbly berry cheesecake and Swabian apple cake. I justify the indulgence by reminding myself I've flown here from Australia and spent the day hiking.
With a belly full of cake, I go to the gym to prepare the ultimate black forest cake at Restaurant Bareiss. Pastry chef Stefan Leitner is one of Europe's finest pastry chefs and on the menu, there's a reimagined black forest cake crafted with utmost skill (if you're lucky).
Germany's Black Forest region
Looking across Germany's Black Forest region as the sun sets. Source: Michelle Tchea

Black Forest urban hike

Baden-Baden is a town in the Black Forest region that's known for its Roman thermal baths. In fact, it forms part of the , which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. But for me, a trip to Baden-Baden is all about the walks to cake shops. 

I start my day with a coffee and a slice of black forest cake from a traditional konditorei (confectionery).  is a historical fixture of the town that dates back more than 250 years.
Then I head south along Lichtentaler Allee like a true local and end up at , another local favourite for cake. There are multiple cakes here, including black forest cake, but you have to get the black forest sundae. Lots of ice cream, cherries and cake in a glass is never a bad idea during the summer, especially when there are views of the Kloster Lichtenthal, a mediaeval abbey. 

I venture to , a concept store with a restaurant, bakery and butchery. Here, I find huge black forest cake slices and Berliners (German doughnuts stuffed with cream). The restaurant serves a deconstructed black forest cake with chocolate fondant, smashed nuts and cherry compote.
Having very little energy left, I return to Baden-Baden for afternoon tea at the iconic . Here I find a French-style afternoon tea in a historical building where aristocrats used to sit sipping tea. The spread is inspired by Paris pastry legend, Pierre Hermé.
Macaron forêt noire at Brenner Park-Hotel & Spa.
Macaron forêt noire at Brenner Park-Hotel & Spa. Source: Brenner Park-Hotel & Spa
The scones are buttery and there are lots of chocolate pralines. But the best item to indulge in is Pierre Hermé's macaron forêt noire (black forest macaron).

Share
SBS Food is a 24/7 foodie channel for all Australians, with a focus on simple, authentic and everyday food inspiration from cultures everywhere. NSW stream only. Read more about SBS Food
Have a story or comment? Contact Us

SBS Food is a 24/7 foodie channel for all Australians, with a focus on simple, authentic and everyday food inspiration from cultures everywhere. NSW stream only.
Watch nowOn Demand
Follow SBS Food
5 min read
Published 25 April 2023 9:09pm
Updated 1 May 2023 10:24am
By Michelle Tchea


Share this with family and friends