The sister-and-brother duo behind have hospitality in their blood. When Sofia and Stefan Soltys were growing up, their family owned restaurants in Melbourne – so it seemed natural for them to open in the CBD a few years ago. It was their first cafe.
Their new venture, a , has a more personal connection. It celebrates their Ukrainian heritage. “In some sense, we wanted to recreate the experience we had at our grandparents' home. It’s very welcoming. You come through the door, people get up and embrace each other and then the food and the conversations start flowing,” Stefan Soltys tells SBS Food.
Sofia and Stefan Soltys: hospitality runs in their blood. (Audrey Bourget) Source: Audrey Bourget
Tradition and modernity
takes inspiration from Ukraine, of course, but other Eastern European countries as well. There are dishes that you’d immediately associate with the region, like , cucumber, dill and yoghurt salad and . “We don’t need to really encourage people to try the pierogi because it’s a dumpling and Melbourne loves dumplings,” says Stefan with a laugh.
While the nod to tradition is there, the Soltys siblings are working with to bring different techniques and some lightness to the dishes.
On the menu are two types of pierogi: pork and apple, and potato and cheddar. Source: Audresy
“It’s a very tight balance. We know that people who are from Eastern Europe would like something more traditional, but we also want to showcase to Australians the possibilities of what can be done with this cuisine,” says Sofia. “Eastern European food can be quite heavy and stodgy. What we’re doing is keeping the flavours and the ingredients, but preparing them in different ways.”
Look at the buttermilk pork loin braised and served with prune jam and (potato pancake): “It has the element of Eastern European cooking – where we use fruits and meat and potatoes together – but we’ve cooked it in a more approachable way,” says Sofia.
A big seller is the layered honey cake, honeycomb crumble and vanilla pastry cream. Source: Wilson Liew
The dill and vodka salmon tartare with pickled cucumber and rye bread also brings together classic ingredients in a new way.
Dill and vodka salmon tartare with pickled cucumber and rye bread at Little Odessa. (Wilson Liew) Source: Wilson Liew
Ukrainian hospitality
The siblings say both the Ukrainian community and the Fitzroy locals have been incredibly supportive since their opening in . “We find that our family history resonates with a lot of people coming here whose grandparents came over after the Second World War,” says Stefan.
“We always wanted to be part of the community and be connected. We don’t want to be an anonymous place with rotating staff,” adds Sofia.
A wine bar with a sense of community. Source: Wilson Liew
With , Little Odessa might be the perfect getaway for fans who couldn’t score a ticket. Here, you can travel vicariously via your meal and discover the delights of Russian cuisine beyond borscht.
Wed – Fri 5 pm till late
Sat- Sun 1 pm till late
274 Rear Brunswick St, Fitzroy, Victoria 3065
Regional specialties
Readable feasts: Mamushka: Recipes from Ukraine and beyond
