How I learnt 'how to do Christmas' in Australia as an immigrant

For those of us who haven't grown up celebrating Christmas, television shows offered a window into the world of western traditions. Here's how I learnt Christmas from TV, and found my own festive traditions.

Dill-cured salmon with mustard sauce (gravadlax)

Dill-cured salmon with mustard sauce (gravadlax) Credit: Adam Liaw

— Find more Christmas cooking inspiration with the Festive Feasts

Growing up in Singapore, Christmas was just another day – a quiet break in the year, more of an excuse to sleep in than a grand celebration. In our home, it wasn’t a holiday with trees, tinsel, or traditions. But as I got older, I became fascinated by how the Western world seemed to transform during the festive season. It was through TV screens that I got my first glimpses – I remember being mesmerised by ’s effortless charm in the kitchen, where Christmas was not just a day but an entire season of indulgence, warmth, and togetherness.

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When I moved to Australia, I found myself surrounded by friends who, like me, had grown up in places where Christmas was not deeply ingrained into the collective consciousness. Together, we shared a sense of curiosity – and a slight sense of disconnection – when it came to the festive traditions we saw on TV. Over the years, we began to craft our own versions of Christmas, blending the ideas we loved from the shows with our own cultural identity. We experimented with classic recipes, adding our own tweaks and personal touches to create something that felt more like “us.”

Now, Christmas is a time for friends, food, and a dash of creativity in the kitchen.

Here are some examples of how I've created my own unique holiday traditions – taking some of my favourite festive recipes, and giving it my personal adaptations.
I was mildly obsessed with smoked salmon as a child, and when Nigella told me that I could cure my own salmon with a bit of salt, sugar, mustard and gin? Yes, please!

Slicing cured salmon
Gravlax has become a staple of my celebrations.

I've also extended this practice to other types of protein. Kingfish and cod lends itself quite nicely to being cured, and I also apply the same concept to making duck prosciutto! I press duck breasts in the curing mixture for two days, before brushing off the excess cure and wrapping it in cheesecloth. That little parcel gets left in the fridge to dry out for two weeks, and voila! – I now have duck prosciutto to impress all my guests with.
Prior to moving to Australia, I had never constructed or eaten from a cheeseboard. Imports such as Camembert were almost always sold as mini-wheels, and I enjoyed it mostly as a whole wheel, sometimes sandwiched in a hot waffle.
A row of cream cheese decorated to look like little Christmas trees
These days, I've come to really appreciate the variety in a good cheeseboard, and how, with a little decorative know-how, it can transform into the centrepiece of a Christmas table. I love a lush cream cheese dip, and I will sometimes set it in a piping bag to make a tall conical shape, then roll it in chopped herbs to reveal an edible Christmas tree centrepiece.
Before discovering Christmas specials on TV, I always thought that ham only came in football shapes that were sliced. And the fact that you could actually glaze it? "What magic is this?," I wondered.
Maple syrup glazed ham
Credit: Ben Dearnley
I've since had a few glazed hams from friends' adopted families, but my favourite glaze is still to combine rum and plum jam for a rich, sweet, sure-to-be-sticky glaze. Plus, it's yet another way to incorporate Christmas booze in a recipe – win-win!
The closest thing I had eaten to a trifle had been a tiramisu. And yes, before I get attacked by a mob with pitchforks, I know that they're absolutely not the same thing. But layered desserts were a bit low on the ground growing up, and once I saw this jewel-toned stunner, I knew I just had to have it in my holiday menu.
Turkish delight trifle
Turkish delight trifle Credit: Alan Benson
These days, I like to reference my husband's Iranian heritage by making mine with a saffron custard, rollet (think an Iranian version of a French ), cherries, and chopped pistachios. Yum!
I have always loved a food gift, but beyond basic cookies and jams, I never really understood what the true breadth of Christmas food gifts could be.
White chocolate bark
Credit: Brett Stevens
But now, (complete with candy canes – why it never occurred to me earlier I'll never know), (you can roll cookies in sugar before baking???) and make up my Christmas gifting arsenal, and I'm forever a changed person.

This is one particular practice that I picked up without making any changes to, but some things I feel are complete enough to be kept as they are meant to be. (Although, remind me to tell you about my laksa shortbread next time.)

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SBS Food is a 24/7 foodie channel for all Australians, with a focus on simple, authentic and everyday food inspiration from cultures everywhere. NSW stream only. Read more about SBS Food
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SBS Food is a 24/7 foodie channel for all Australians, with a focus on simple, authentic and everyday food inspiration from cultures everywhere. NSW stream only.
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5 min read
Published 9 December 2024 6:46pm
Updated 10 December 2024 5:12pm
By Tammi Kwok
Source: SBS


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