Tucked away along Perth's William Street is an Indonesian eatery called . The popular dining strip has had a metamorphosis over the last two decades, but this multi-generational restaurant has stood the test of time.
Wife-and-husband team, Joana and Ben Sirliem, run the cafe. It was first established in 2001 by Joana's parents, who migrated to Australia from Ambon Island, Indonesia, to escape political unrest. With retail and hospitality backgrounds, Joana's parents opened a restaurant.
"My dad was in the grocery business in Indonesia, and my mum had a bit of a cooking background, so they started the restaurant," Joana tells SBS Food.
The restaurant was one of a handful of Indonesian eateries in Perth. Wanting to stand out, Joana's parents served cuisine inspired by the formerly named Spice Islands, now called the Maluku Islands, which includes Ambon. Dishes also included family favourites such as (also spelled kondro) or beef ribs.
"We were the only ones serving kondro beef ribs," Joana says. "I think that was probably my parent's original thinking."
Originally from South Sulawesi, konro ribs are slow cooked in a broth with spices such as coriander, nutmeg and tumeric. The tender meat is served in different ways, each with its own distinctive flair.
Konro rica at Manise Cafe. Source: Manise Cafe
There's sup konro (beef rib soup), konro bakar (grilled beef ribs with a homemade peanut sauce), konro rica (grilled beef ribs with sambal) and gulai konro (beef ribs served in a yellow curry soup).
When Joana's parents retired in 2016, they asked her and Ben, a hospitality veteran with over 30 years of experience, if they wanted to run the business.
Gulai konro. Source: Manise Cafe
"Ben is a professional commercial cook with many years of experience, so we said we would take over the restaurant."
Joana and Ben have since expanded the menu to include dishes enjoyed across Indonesia. They have kept a few regional dishes. These include seafood dishes, such as ikan bakar à la Ambon (grilled whole fish served with chilli, tomatoes and special sauce) and cumi bakar à la Ambon (grilled squid in a sweet-and-sour sauce).
Joana and Ben Sirlien show the dishes on Manise Cafe's menu. Source: Manise Cafe
"Because we're from the east of Indonesia, [my parents] grew up eating fish," Joana says.
We'll try to introduce Indonesian food to Australia instead of them having to fly to Indonesia.
It was a no-brainer to keep the restaurant's signature beef ribs, which are made with a family recipe that includes over 10 herbs and spices.
The ribs are slow cooked for hours to enhance their complex flavour. "Ben would usually cook 12kg of beef ribs at a time with all the spices in there," Joana explains.
Manise Cafe's beef ribs have attracted a loyal following, but it's also a treat to have Ben's peanut anchovies and ayam soto (chicken soup). The restaurant is receptive to requests too.
Joana thinks the restaurant is more than about serving good food; it's about letting customers relish a trip to Indonesia by the forkful instead of taking a flight.
Crispy fried chicken skin at Manise Cafe. Source: Manise Cafe
"We thought we'll try to introduce Indonesian food to Australia instead of them having to fly to Indonesia," Joana says.
"It's important for us to introduce people to the different varieties of our food."
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