Where: Pontianak, Kalimantan, Indonesia
Why go?: Nearly all foreign tourists bypass West Kalimantan’s capital and head straight for the wilds of Borneo, but domestic tourists come to Pontianak to eat. A vibrant trading port, the city sits downriver from the tropical produce of Borneo's interior, and has a diverse cultural mix, predominantly Chinese, Malay and native Dayak, and this all adds up to some very good eating. A cosmopolitan atmosphere, brilliant street eats, open-air coffee shops packed until late and a kitsch equator monument make it worth a visit.
Must eats: In Pontianak, you'll find halal versions of Chinese dishes, as well as Indonesian classics with a side of pork for the large Teochew Chinese community. The Chinese flavour of the city is evident in its must-try version of nasi ayam, or chicken rice. It does include a small, token piece of chicken, but this is hidden under several different kinds of pork, each more delicious than the next; barbecued, cured, braised and fried. Indonesian classics nasi kuning and nasi uduk (yellow rice and coconut rice with anchovies, egg, sambal, peanuts, cucumber, shrimp crackers and more) and burbur pedas (spicy porridge) make for hearty breakfasts, while dim sum, tau suan (Chinese split bean soup), kwetiau (flat noodles, served fried or as a soup), charcoal-grilled sate ayam (chicken satay skewers) and mie sagu (sago noodles) are popular snacks. Rojak, a Malaysian salad, makes the most of the tropical fruit on offer, while the local seafood shines in dishes such as bakmi kepiting(crab noodles), and kepiting asap (spicy smoked crab). Throw in a thick black coffee or a 'cappuccino ice' at a coffee shop, and you'll understand why Pontianak is known for its food scene.
If you only eat one dish: The food that Pontianak locals can't live without is . These are a specialty of Ponti's Teochew community, and are sold from street-side stalls and eateries. Popular fillings include chives, yam and dried shrimp and soy beans. The steamed dumplings are plump and half-moon shaped, while the doughier fried version, chai kue goreng, are thicker-skinned and flattened into a round, then fried until golden brown. The garlic oil drizzled over the top, with golden crumbs of fried garlic, turns a solid dish into the kind that makes you weak at the knees. The aroma of fried garlic lingers long after the dumplings are gobbled, and can lure even the strongest-willed pedestrian in off the street. Dip the morsels in a mixture of kecap manis, soy sauce and a vinegary, fresh chilli sauce and then promptly order a second round.
Must visits: Geography nerds will appreciate a visit to the city's equator monument, where you can attempt to balance an egg on the equator line and marvel at a tin can that casts no shadow at noon. Indonesia's longest river, the mighty Kapuas, also runs through the city. Take a boat down the river, explore the rickety wooden boardwalks and the kraton (palace) on the north bank or join locals at a buzzing square on the south bank that fills with food carts in the evenings. Walk along Jalan Gajahmada to find the best coffee shops, explore the side-streets to track down local specialities or head up to a hotel rooftop at dusk to watch kites soar high above the city.
Best food souvenirs: If a model of the equator monument isn't quite your thing, you’ll be pleased to know the Chinese tradition of food souvenirs made it to Pontianak. Load up your suitcase with sontong pangkong (dried squid) or confectionery flavoured with Pontianak’s famed aloe vera. If you want to take the taste and smell of West Borneo home but don’t fancy being tackled in customs, buy gift packs of lempok durian, a jelly-like sweet flavoured with the tropical fruit but far less pungent than the real deal. And don’t leave without a box of nastar, Pontianak’s version of the small pineapple cakes found throughout South-East Asia.
Cook the recipe
Source: Benito Martin
Landscape photography and in-situ food photography by Rachel Bartholomeusz.
Dumpling photography by Benito Martin. Styling by Lynsey Fryers. Food styling and preparation by Alice Storey. Food preparation by Georgi Larby.
